The Discovery Coast extends from Port Hardy to Bella Coola on the Central Coast, and includes the communities of Namu, McLoughlin Bay, Bella Bella, Shearwater, Klemtu, Ocean Falls, and the Hakai Pass area.

There are some places, luckily, that are still inaccessible by road. British Columbia's Central Coast is one of them. Until BC Ferries launched its Discovery Coast Passage run in the summer of 1996, the Central Coast was also largely inaccessible by water. Now, to the delight of adventurers and locals alike, from June to September the Queen of Chilliwack connects the community of Port Hardy, at the northeastern end of Vancouver Island, with Bella Coola, at the head of the North Bentinck Arm, making regular stops along the way.

For cycle tourists and RVers, the Discovery Coast Passage service opens up a brand-new circle tour through some of the province's most beautiful terrain. From Bella Coola, Highway 20 leads across the Chilcotin Plateau to the Cariboo, from where any number of routes lead back to the Lower Mainland. But one of the bonuses of this trip is that you needn't take a (four-wheeled) vehicle at all.

For kayakers, backpackers and campers choose your destination, explore some territory, then reboard the ferry on a subsequent day. Planning your trip, which involves detailed study of the ferry schedule, is half the fun. As yet, the Discovery Coast Passage remains largely undiscovered. Book soon.

When European explorers arrived along this coast in the 18th century, it was inhabited by Natives from several cultural groups. Although hunters and gatherers like the tribes of the Interior, the coastal natives, due to their abundant food supply, were able to establish permanent villages. Their complex cultures were distinguished by an emphasis on wealth, a refined artistic tradition, and a rich spirit life. Travel along the coast was accomplished via cedar dugout canoes that could be impressive in their length. Although there's nothing more inspiring than to see one of these massive canoes in action, they are only brought out for ceremonial occasions, such as a paddle trip to Vancouver or the Olympic Peninsula in Washington. These days, aluminum-hulled, high-speed boats are the vessels of choice among all inhabitants of the coast.

Explorers from Russia, Britain, France, and Spain converged on this coastline in the last quarter of the 18th century, motivated by trade possibilities or - in the case of Spain - a desire to protect territorial waters. Two British explorers, Captain James Cook in 1778-79 and Captain George Vancouver in 1792-93, did the most systematic charting of the coast. After an international tussle, the British eventually gained control of what would later become the coast of British Columbia. Colonization and settlement began in the 19th century, although British Columbia's Central and Northern Coast is still not heavily populated. Logging, fishing, and tourism are the primary industries, though with the decline in stocks and automation in the forest, fewer people live here now than in previous decades. After a disastrous decline in Native populations (by as much as 90 percent in some nations) that began over a century ago due to infectious diseases such as smallpox and tuberculosis, today's numbers match those of precontact times.

The Queen of Chilliwack, 377 feet (115 m) long, carrying 115 vehicles and 375 passengers, sails from its southern terminus in Port Hardy, 250 miles (400 km) north of Nanaimo on Highway 19. The drive from Nanaimo to Port Hardy takes four to five hours. Bella Coola, the ferry's main northern terminus, is 283 miles (456 km) west of Williams Lake on Highway 20. There are scheduled flights to Bella Bella and Bella Coola (airport at Hagensborg) from Vancouver Airport. Pacific Coastal Airlines in Vancouver offers a scheduled service into both Port Hardy and Bella Bella.

As cruises go, the Discovery Coast Passage is hardly lavish. The Queen of Chilliwack is a working freight boat, serving the needs of the local communities. It's just as well that luxuries aboard this refurbished Norwegian vessel don't distract from the scenery, which is spectacular, with long fjords and narrow channels forming the backdrop to the Inside Passage. The roughest portion of the trip is just out of Port Hardy, as the ferry navigates the unprotected waters of Queen Charlotte Sound. This is a good time for a nap. The most stunning scenery is between Bella Bella and Bella Coola.

With the setting sun behind you, the monolithic rock formations looming over the narrow Burke Channel give the cruise a European flavour. You'll get an even better look at the scenic Dean Channel during daylight hours if you board the ferry in Bella Coola for the southbound sailing. Weather permitting, the ship's two upper decks are an excellent vantage point from which to watch for the logging camps, barge houses, and abandoned settlements that indicate a human presence on this rugged coastline. Although Natives have inhabited the area for thousands of years, the inhospitable terrain has limited development and exploration by European settlers until comparatively recently. Wildlife viewing - the ferry slows for orcas - is another bonus of this trip. Don't forget your binoculars.

Facilities aboard the Queen of Chilliwack include reclining sleeper seats, a cafeteria, and small licenced lounge, a gift shop and - a boon for kayakers - pay showers. Service is friendly, the food is better-than-average for BC Ferries, and there is a staff member dedicated to customer service who can assist you with your onboard needs or travel plans.

Location: The Discovery Coast is the southern section of the Inside Passage that stretches from Port Hardy (on Vancouver Island) to Prince Rupert (mainland) through the protected waters of British Columbia's central and northern coastline. Access is via B.C. Ferries from Prince Rupert and Bella Coola and Port Hardy on Vancouver Island.

Ferry information for the Discovery Coast.
Ferry information for the Inside Passage.